Dhaka Part II: A Symphony of Survival

The air hung thick and sweet, clinging to my skin like a forgotten memory. The bus lurched forward, a reluctant participant in the city’s cacophony. Honking rickshaws weaved between us, their drivers shouting greetings and curses in equal measure. It was sensory overload, a stark contrast to the orchestrated calm of New York City I’d called home for the past seven years. Yet, beneath the surface thrummed a different rhythm – a quiet hum of resilience, a constant innovation born out of necessity. Was this struggle, or a silent symphony of survival?

Hustle and Heart

Dhaka isn’t for the faint of heart. My friend’s words echoes in my head: “99% of life here is a struggle.” He isn’t wrong. The middle class treads a tightrope, juggling work, family, and the ever-present battle against the clock. A three-hour commute that could be done in thirty with no traffic – a daily reminder of a city straining at the seams.

Yet, amidst the struggle, there’s an undeniable warmth. Strangers offer genuine smiles and unsolicited support. Here, connection thrives on face-to-face interactions, a welcome change from the curated reality of online life. But the constant social engagement, a cherished aspect of Bangladeshi culture, could also be overwhelming. Finding moments of solitude became a precious luxury.

Stuck in Orbit

“We’re stuck in the outer orbit,” lamented a friend, a tech solopreneur for over a decade in Dhaka. Bangladesh, once an agrarian nation, successfully transitioned to a textile and remittance-based economy. It’s a success story in world economic circles, with consistent GDP growth. Crime rates are down, and the promise of a “Digital Bangladesh” hangs in the air with the unveiling of it’s first ever cloud data center.

But beneath the gleaming facade lies a yearning for more. Entrepreneurship is stifled by red tape and a cultural preference for stability over risk-taking. The lure of a secure job often outweighs the gamble of a startup, a stark contrast to the US, where government incentives encourage small businesses and the media idolizes the 20 year old AI startup founder taking on Google.

Building Blocks of Tomorrow

Looking out from my parents’ home, I counted at least twenty buildings at various stages of development. A stark contrast retrieving cricket balls from rice fields in my childhood. I wondered if the American YIMBY (Yes In My Backyard) movement would approve. In the US, development clashes with existing homeowners who fiercely protect their neighborhood character. Dhaka, on the other hand, embraces construction with open arms.

However, this rapid growth comes at a cost. Urban planning struggles to keep pace, resulting in a dearth of green spaces – an irony for a nation known for its rivers and annual floods.

The Power of “Jugaad”

“Do you realize Bangladesh might not exist in 50 years,” a friend in the US had said, climate change heavy on her mind. Here, the threat is ever-present. Floating agriculture and villages on stilts are testaments to a nation determined to survive.

This resourcefulness is called “jugaad” in Hindi or “joratali” in Bangla. This permeates daily life. Families mend and repurpose before discarding anything. Hyper-local cuisines, a result of a time when spices were a luxury, reflect a population’s ability to adapt. Bangladesh, after all, pioneered micro-credit, empowering women and reducing poverty.

A Call to Action

Bangladesh brims with potential, but climate change looms large. The nation needs leaders who can inspire, who can create a compelling vision. However, inspiration alone won’t be enough. There’s need for systemic change to remove obstacles that prevent ordinary people from believing they can make a difference.

The media too has a role to play. By celebrating those who are leading the charge, they can shape a culture that embraces innovation and progress.

Dhaka is a city of contrasts – a relentless struggle interwoven with an enduring spirit. It’s a symphony of survival, a song waiting to heard.